The interesting part of this experience we call Medellin is that I’m essentially starting from zero. I’ve had to relearn the simple and ordinary aspects of life. Today’s seemingly mundane experience brings to life El Colectivo and the salsa clasica stories that reflect the daily life of the audience they’re meant to capture. Bear with me as I walk you through my story:
El Colectivo Amaraillo by Toño Reyes
Over the past few weeks, I’ve been on a mission to find a salsa dance company. I’ve started my search by looking through el directorio as very few dance academies have up and running websites. So if you can imagine me having trouble figuring out the Colombian yellow pages, which has a very different system from the states, you can bet your bottom peso that I often find myself lost locating places, especially in Laureles and El Poblado where my search takes me today. The street system is not as bad as Queens, NY but what seems like a relatively simple grid easily turns into a complex web of tranversales, diagonales, circulares, glorietas, calles, and carreras with streets numbered 33a and 33aa. The street I was on in El Poblado went all the way up to F. Throw in a Sur here and there and you’re bound to get confused.
The first address I had to figure out was Carrera 81 #33aa-08, which is the equivalent of 81st Avenue with 33aa Street. Now either I was given the wrong address or I copied it down incorrectly as it doesn’t exist. The phantom address was confirmed by the annoying hour I walked around asking security guards and bodega attendants for some assistance. Double that aggravation with the hour I spent later in the day looking for and not finding the address in El Poblado.
Equally frustrating was getting to these places. I had mentioned to a friend that Medellin’s public transportation system is top notch. What I had referred to was the Metro. Cabs are not that bad. They’re relatively inexpensive compared to US rates, especially if you live in Dallas, but if you’re on a limited budget like yours truly, cab rides can get expensive real quick. Since I’m a broke non-employed salsero (unemployed would assume I’m actively searching for a job), I was forced on a public transportation adventure.
The Metro is relatively new as it was inaugurated in 1995. Since it’s illegal to eat or drink on the Metro, it’s always super clean. Combine all that with how relatively frequently it runs and you have my preferred form of travel. The only problem is that the Metro is limited in its reach. Medellin sits in El Valle de Aburrá surrounded by the Andes Mountains. The Metro only runs north and south of the valley with a second line that travels from the center of the city towards the west. There are two additional Metro Cable lines (an aerial tramway) that travel up the side of the mountains.
So if the address you’re looking for doesn’t fall within walking distance of a Metro Station, you’re forced to use the bus system, which unlike the states is privately owned. The bus system seems to be composed of large colorful left over machinery from the 50’s and 60’s, which I’m convinced is the major source of pollution in Medellin. I often feel like I stepped in a time machine when I ride a Medellin bus. Along with these ancient relics are the smaller colectivos, which are nothing short of a small airport shuttle.
It’s not just the emissions these buses emit, it’s the roller coaster ride they put you through that make you feel like you’re in a time capsule. The seats even remind me of the old coasters at Rocky Point Park in Rhode Island. Since bus drivers seem to be on a tight schedule (every so often they stop to get a time card stamped), they barely wait for you to step one foot on the bus before they zoom off to the next destination. The chorus of Los Demonios del Salado’s version, “El colectivo de las siete, el colectivo se va”, explains the hop on, hop off acrobatics you have to pull off as the driver barely affords you a millisecond at either end of your journey.
Once inside the bus, if you’re lucky to get a seat, you better hold on tight because you’re bound to feel like you’re on a trampoline. Since drivers here rarely give a rats ass about speed limits or traffic lights, the Medellin streets are littered with speed bumps, often a few yards separate the next one. It’s as if the urban planners are sitting back with a grin of “ha, ha… gotcha!” If your poor chap status has left you standing, you’re in for quite a ride as drivers stop on a dime after going what feels like 200 miles an hour. There are two bars on either side of the bus and one running down the middle for you to swing on like a zoo monkey as drivers refuse to slow down on curves.
Although most Paisas are cordial and take pride in their impeccable manners (you have to say good day before uttering any phrase to a stranger), those table manners Mamá taught us don’t hold water when a seat frees up. Paisas are no better on the Metro. On my way back from El Poblado, an old lady was nearly trampled for acting too slow to move out of the way of outgoing passengers and a young lady was left taking the next stop after incoming commuters bull-rushed the closing doors, leaving her boyfriend standing on the platform dumbfounded by what had just occurred. It’s Darwin’s survival of the fittest at its worst. Pure chaos ensues on these buses, especially during rush hour.
That chaos is what the composer of El Colectivo had in mind when he decided to describe today’s bus journey to perfection. Listen to minute 0:10 to 0:20 of El Colectivo de las Siete:
Para atrás que hay asiento
Oiga no empuje, no empuje
El asiento es para tres
Y cuidado con el bolsillo
El Colectivo de las Siete by Los Demonios del Salado
Both versions don’t use a singer to belt out some fine tunes. Instead, they opt for a passenger ranting throughout the song. On minute 0:43 the frustrated commuter continues with: “Cuidado con la roja… metale el chuzo… aguanta que allí viene la moto y nos pueden recetar” followed by a police siren that tails off into a timbales solo, which I’m certain is included to emphasize the mayhem we’ve experienced the last 0:50 seconds of our bus ride. Although these bus rides can very well lead to ulcers, I appreciate the journey as its part of what makes my Medellin experiment so diverse from my previous assignment.
These descargas certainly give you a taste of what it’s like to live through a bus ride in Medellin, especially the whirlwind the sax takes you on minute 1:35 to 2:12 of El Colectivo Amarillo. They display how salsa clasica composers weren’t limited by heartbreak or bling bling to sell records. An experience as routine as finding Carrera 81 #33aa-08 can inspire a kick ass song. It’s paying attention to the details of my Medellin life that brought me to appreciate this song. Salsa classica is filled with story telling that you can quickly throw on your headphones and crack a smile at the song’s willingness to hop on a frustrating bus ride with you to an address you’ll never find.
Peace
DJ Walt







